Tuesday, May 13, 2014

metal allergies

It's not uncommon for someone to be allergic to their jewelry. It's also not uncommon for those allergies to develop over time. I've seen people with rashes from their necklaces, swollen earlobes from base metal earrings...
There's a difference between allergic reactions and your skin turning green from cheap costume jewelry. THAT is from whatever plating the manufacturer put on the piece wearing off and exposing whatever is underneath to your skin. The discoloration will go away, and it's not gonna hurt you. 
There's also a lot of people that mistake reactions from dirty jewelry as a reaction to the metal itself. This is probably what I see more often. People come in and complain that they're breaking out in a rash because they're allergic to their ring. So I look at it carefully under a microscope and it's terrifying. God knows what kind of plague some people are growing on their jewelry.  It's awful. 
If you wore the same clothes day in and day out, eventually, you would develop some skin irritation because the clothes would be filthy. Jewelry is no different. You gotta take it off and clean them. If I suspect that bacteria is the enemy in a case and not the actual metal, I advise that the customer to leave their jewelry off until the affliction clears up. After that, once their bling is clean, they can try it again and see what happens. Usually there isn't a problem. 
I'm not trying to downplay allergies, I'm just saying let's not jump to that conclusion first. Some people really are sensitive to metal, and we need to cater to that. 
Gold and silver are alloyed with other metals to change their nature and be more affordable. With gold, there's 10, 12, 14, 18, and 24 karat. (On a side note, Karat is for gold, Carat is for diamonds and gemstones, and carrot is a vegetable... it's all about the spelling) this of course is how we measure the different ratios of gold to alloys in the US. Europeans have a different set of numbers that they use to make the association.
Often, silver and copper are added to gold because Gold in its purest form is Very soft. We need something a little bit more sturdy for what people wear every day, so we mix in the alloys.
Personally, I find that if someone has a legitimate allergy, it's to Nickle, although, it could be other things.
I know it seems like I'm going off on a lot of different topics right now, but they all tie together I promise.
White gold is basically yellow gold mixed with Nickle and some other things depending on the manufacturer. The end result of the mix Is a dingy white metal, so the product is then dipped in rhodium to make it bright white. Rhodium is a member of the platinum family, and Platinum is hypoallergenic. If your white gold ring is giving you a rash and it's not dirty, try having it rhodium plated. The plating will put a barrier between the Nickle and your skin. The plate will wear off depending on how often you wear the piece and what it's exposed to, but it's a good fix for now.
You could also opt for a platinum setting and avoid the process of plating because platinum is naturally white. :)

Monday, May 5, 2014

For the do it yourselfers

I'm sure many of us have seen those little bottles of jewelry cleaner for sale at various retailers. Generally inexpensive and handy to have around if you like to take care of things on your own, or in between visits to the jeweler.
I love these little things, but be very careful that you read the label and use the cleaner as directed. Is it all purpose? Is it for silver only? Or for Pearl jewelry only? These labels aren't slapped on the bottles so that the retailer can sell more of them by claiming they do different things. They honestly are formulated for different jobs. So be sure you check the bottle first. (Also, stones like coral, or opal shouldn't come into contact with these cleaners.) After you're done sloshing your jewelry around in the cleaner, rinse it off thoroughly with water and brush it lightly with a soft bristled toothbrush. Residue of the cleaner may actually tarnish your jewelry all over again. 
Also! I know Pandora is a big thing now. They're sold all over, but I have seen a few of these bracelets and beads ruined because they were cleaned incorrectly. Pandora prefers that their bracelets not be cleaned with silver jewelry cleaner but with baby soap and water. No joke. These aren't cheap bracelets, let's care for them the way we're supposed to. 
Pandora has a lot of people mimicking their line and selling similar pieces. I'm not familiar with all of them, so the safest advise I can give is to specifically ask the retailer you're purchasing from how to care for them. 

Thursday, May 1, 2014

They that must not be named are at it again.

I torture myself somewhat by watching a certain television show that features the sale of jewelry. I say torture because in my opinion,  this show that will remain nameless makes my job more difficult than it needs to be. However, what they sell will inevitably make its way to my bench over time and I need to be ready for it when it does, so I watch.
A while back, they were selling buffing machines to the general public, and I about lost my mind. For those that don't know, a buffer is a machine that polishes jewelry. If you don't know what you're doing, you shouldn't own one. There in lies the problem. MOST people don't know what they're doing.
On the off chance that any of you find yourself using a buffer, keep these tips in mind:
1: don't polish chains or bracelets on the buffer. Unless you have the appropriate tools to attach the chains or bracelets to, don't even attempt it. It's a good way to lose a finger.
2: if you aren't used to burning your fingers daily, I recommend putting your rings on a wooden mandrel (one at a time) and buffing that way. Don't press the mandrel into the polishing wheels with force. Every time your ring is buffed, a small amount of metal is worn away. Buffing removes small surface scratches which is why your rings look newer when they are buffed.  Press it somewhat lightly to the wheel and be careful to avoid protruding stones that sit up higher.
3: now that I think about it, stay away from any stones altogether. I can't see what you're polishing and just to be safe, don't do it. Polish around them.
4: don't buff with billowing sleeves or loose clothes of any kind. Pull your hair back and tuck any long chains into your shirt to avoid getting caught in the spinning wheels. I'm not kidding guys, these things move fast, and if they get caught....words cannot express the panic that will ensue.
5: professional shops will have air filters on their machines because they are likely larger buffers than these small ones that the show was selling, but we have filters because they blow polishing compound all over. They will throw out a fine black dust like substance that will get on the walls and whatever else you have around it and it's not necessarily easy to clean up. So, just be aware of that.
6: it's not necessary to buff your jewelry regularly. If you're wanting to just keep up with your bling and make sure it's in good shape, a simple cleaning will do in between visits to the jeweler. Again, don't use toothpaste. Try regular Mr. clean in warm water with a soft bristled toothbrush.
7: the likelihood of this being an issue is remote at best, but I like to cover my bases. Don't polish platinum pieces with the same polishing wheel that you use for gold or silver. Like I said earlier, every buffing removes metal. Where do you think it goes? On the wheels. Platinum is a hypoallergenic metal, and when you press it to the polishing wheel, it will get tiny microscopic amounts of the other metals from previous polishes impregnated in it. So have a separate wheel for Plat.  Pieces.
8: while I'm on the Platinum subject, you should also know that while it is 60% more dense than gold, it's also Very malleable. Platinum dings up easily and those dings are murder to get out. Don't polish these on the buffer with the expectation that they'll look new like your gold when done. If you want it to look new, you're gonna have to give up your do it yourself ways and bring it to a pro to have it refurbished.

I have an issue with the nameless television program selling these machines because they did so without specifying the dangers and general rules of the buffer. Being a goldsmith isn't easy. You work with chemicals, fire, hot metal, sharp objects.... it takes time, patience, skill, and not everyone can do it.
I watch the program frequently and more often than not, opinions are advertised as fact and that is a dangerous game to play. I just want everyone to be careful and be informed consumers. Thanks for reading:)